Spa and Beach Vacation Guru

Spend every day on the beach if you want -- but you'll miss Aruba's wilder charms. With stark windswept hills, towering cacti, and rough and rocky coasts, the outback is completely different from the posh resort areas, and worthy of exploration. The island's small enough to cover in a day or two. For a complete adventure, rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle: The most picturesque routes are rubble-strewn dirt roads; ordinary cars will do, but rugged Jeeps are better. The circuit around the island's northern tip -- to California Lighthouse, Alto Vista Chapel, Bushiribana Gold Smelter Ruins, and Ayo and Casibari rock formations -- is the most popular. Although less frequented, Arikok National Park, with its flora, fauna, caves, dunes, and history, is just as worthwhile. If you're not the outdoorsy type, visit Oranjestad's small museums or drive down to San Nicolas on your way to Rodger's Beach or Boca Grandi.

In Oranjestad

Aruba's capital attracts more shoppers than sightseers; it's also a popular cruise port. The town has a sunny Caribbean demeanor, with Dutch colonial buildings painted in vivid colors. The main thoroughfare, Lloyd G. Smith Boulevard, runs along the waterfront and abounds with marinas, shopping malls, restaurants, and bars. Caya G. F. Betico Croes, or Main Street, runs roughly parallel to the waterfront several blocks inland; it's another major shopping venue.

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The harbor is packed with fishing boats and schooners docked next to stalls, where vendors hawk fruits, vegetables, and fish. On the other side of the Seaport Marketplace shopping mall, Queen Wilhelmina Park, named after one of Holland's longest-reigning monarchs, features manicured lawns, views of colorful fishing boats, and luxuriant tropical vegetation. If you're looking for a little culture, Oranjestad has a handful of museums and houses of worship.

Archaeological Museum of Aruba

Squeezed between St. Franciscus Roman Catholic Church and the parish rectory, this small museum highlights the island's Amerindian heritage. Pottery vessels, shell and stone tools, burial urns, and skulls and bones are among the artifacts on display. Pick up the museum's booklet The Indians of Aruba ($3) for a concise history of the island's original inhabitants. A must for archaeology and history buffs. The adjacent lab studies Aruba's archaeological treasures.

Hours: Mon-Fri 8am – noon and 1-4pm
Address: J. E. Trausquinplein 2A
Phone: 297/582-8979

Beth Israel Synagogue

Jews, mostly merchants, arrived in Aruba at the beginning of the 20th century, when the oil refinery drew people from the Caribbean and Europe. The Jewish population today is small, but this synagogue endures, with a membership of about 35 families. Most congregants at Friday night services are visitors on vacation. The temple is Conservative in style, with full participation of both men and women. The small gift shop has one-of-a-kind Aruban Judaica. If the temple's closed, knock next door at the cantor's home.

Hours: Friday Service 8pm
Address: Adriaan Lacle Boulevard 2
Phone: 297/582-3272

Cas di Cultura

This architectural melding of futuristic and Caribbean tropical elements is Aruba's cultural center. Programs include films, lectures, concerts, dance performances, folkloric shows, and art exhibits.

Hours: Mon-Sat 10am-4pm; Sun 10am-2pm
Address: Vondellaan 2
Phone: 297/582-1010

Along the Northwest Coast

If you can lift yourself from the sand, rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle and venture into the island's outback. Follow the dirt roads as they toil through alien landscapes of oddly balanced boulders, jagged cliffs, and furious seascapes. The terrain may seem harsh, but the cacti and divi divi trees love it. The tall organ-pipe cacti are known locally as cadushi, the prickly pear variety are called tuna, and the barrel species is bushi. Start from the resort area, head toward the California Lighthouse, then follow the dirt road as it traces the island's perimeter.

Ready for something completely surreal? At the south end of the High-Rise area, the tropical gardens of the Butterfly Farm, J. E. Irausquin Blvd. z/n, across the street from the Divi Phoenix Beach Resort(tel. 297/586-3656), dance with a thousand beautiful butterflies. The 46 species bred at the facility hail from every corner of the temperate world. It's easy to marvel at the colors of the ethereal flutterers, and guides provide amusing explanations of the short but sweet life of the average lepidopteran. Did you know that caterpillars double in size every 24 hours? That butterfly sex lasts for up to 48 hours? Visit as early in the day as possible -- that's when the wing-flapping is maximal. Admission is $10. Open daily from 9am to 4:30pm.

Aruba's most distinctive landmark is the Old Dutch Windmill, J. E. Irausquin Blvd. 330, around the corner from the Butterfly Farm, near Palm Beach (tel. 297/586-2060). It's an anomaly in the Caribbean, but it's authentic. Built in Friesland, Holland, in 1804, it originally drained water from low-lying land. Damaged by a storm in 1878, it was later rebuilt at another site in the Netherlands to mill grain. In 1929 another storm hit the windmill, which stood idle until 1960, when a Dutch merchant shipped it to Aruba. It reopened in 1974 to house a Dutch restaurant and late-night bar. Dutch antiques, Aruban farming implements, and a horse and carriage are the featured items of the simple, informal museum.

Although Aruba is as arid as the desert, the lush Bubali Bird Sanctuary, on J. E. Irausquin Boulevard, serves as a resting and breeding area for more than 80 species of local and migratory birds. Across the street from the Old Dutch Windmill, the sanctuary was once a salt pan. Today the two interconnected manmade lakes are flooded by overflow from a nearby water-treatment facility and surrounded by lush vegetation. The fish in the nutrient-rich ponds attract brown pelicans and black olivaceous cormorants. In the constantly undulating marsh grasses (like something out of a van Gogh painting), black-crowned night herons, Louisiana herons, great blue herons, common egrets, and snowy egrets abound. Gulls, skimmers, coots, and numerous species of ducks also make appearances. The observation tower gives birders a bird's-eye view of the oasis. Dawn and dusk, when the birds are most active, are the best times to visit. The sanctuary is always open; admission is free.

Go north from the bird sanctuary, past half of the High-Rise hotels, and turn right at the first traffic light. Proceed a mile or two to the next traffic light. Originally built in 1776 and last renovated in 1916, Santa Anna Church boasts a soaring ceiling and an intricately carved altar, communion rail, and pulpit. The neo-Gothic oak altar, carved in 1870 for a parish in the Dutch province of Noord-Brabent by Hendrik van der Geld, came to Aruba in 1928. The stained-glass windows, dating from 1932 and 1965, honor four former lay priests of Alto Vista Chapel (described in the next paragraph). The adjacent cemetery has no grass, but its hodgepodge of grave "houses" painted in tropical pastel colors is bright and meditative. The church is on Caya F. D. Figueroa at the intersection of Palm Beach in Noord (tel. 297/586-1409). Sunday Mass is celebrated at 7:30am and 6pm in Papiamento and English.

From the church, drive north for about 5 minutes. The California Lighthouse sits on a hilltop perch at Aruba's northernmost tip, but its active days are over. Part of the adjacent restaurant once served as the lighthouse keeper's home. The beacon itself has been closed to the public for a number of years, ever since someone committed suicide by jumping from its summit. The surrounding area features some of the island's most spectacular scenery -- gentle sand dunes, rocky coral shoreline, and turbulent waves. The picturesque structure gets its name from the California, a passenger ship that sank off the nearby coast before the lighthouse was completed in 1916.

Now it's time to leave paved roads behind. Turn right at the lighthouse and follow the dirt trail along the dramatic northern coast. The road's rough state precludes speeding, but within 15 minutes you'll reach another manmade attraction. Built in 1750 and renovated 200 years later, the picturesque Alto Vista Chapel radiates serenity from its cactus-studded perch overlooking the sea. The chapel, Aruba's first, was built by Caiquetio Indians and Spanish settlers before the island had its own priest. The church's ancient Spanish cross is one of the oldest European artworks in the Dutch Caribbean, and the altar's statue has a devoted local following. Secluded near the island's northwestern corner, just off the rough dirt road hugging the northeast coast, the bright yellow structure, little more than a hut, rests at the end of a winding road lined with white crosses marking the stations of the cross.

Five minutes farther down the coast, you'll come to the Bushiribana Ruins. According to local legend, in 1824 a 12-year-old boy came across gold in one of the dry creek beds on Aruba's north coast. Naturally, the discovery set off a gold frenzy. For 30 years, Arubans were allowed to collect the precious metal, provided they sold it at a set price. In 1854, a gold-mining concession was granted to the Aruba Island Goldmining Company, which built this smelter on the north coast in 1872. Although the facility operated for only 10 years, its hulking ruins still dominate the area. Climb the multitiered interior for impressive sea views. Too bad the walls have been marred with artless graffiti.

From the ruins, you'll be able to see a line of cars heading for the next site, just minutes away. The island's most photographed attraction, the Natural Bridge rises 7.5m (25 ft.) above the sea and spans 30m (100 ft.) of rock-strewn waters. Centuries of relentless pounding by the surf carved the arch out of the limestone coast. One of the Caribbean's highest and most dramatic coral structures, it's a fitting crown for the tumultuous north coast. Because the bridge acts as a buffer between the sandy beach and open ocean, many people come here to swim and picnic. The nearby thirst-aid station supplies refreshments and souvenirs.

Retrace the dirt road back to the first intersection and turn left. The road soon becomes paved, and within 5 minutes, take a right. (Signage is nonexistent here, so don't be shy about asking for directions.) Looking like something out of "The Flintstones," the eerie Ayo Rock Formations served Aruba's early inhabitants as a dwelling or religious site. The reddish-brown petroglyphs on the boulders suggest magical significance, and the strange stones look as though they were stacked by giants. The site is open daily from 9am to 5pm, and admission is free.

If you like the Ayo rocks, continue on the main road to its end. Turn right, then take another right at the sign for the Casibari Rock Formations. These alien rocks rise from the cacti- and lizard-infested hills. Although the boulders weigh several tons each, they look freshly scattered by some cyclopean dice-roller. Look for the formations that resemble birds and dragons, or climb the trail to the top of the highest rock mound for a panorama of the area. Watch your head on the path to the top, though; the tunnels have low clearance. The rock garden is open daily from 9am to 5pm, with no admission charge. The nearby stands sell souvenirs, snacks, soft drinks, and beer.

Near San Nicolas

Roughly 80% of Arubans are Roman Catholic, and parish churches dot the island. In Seroe Pretoe, near San Nicolas on the way from Arikok National Park, the Lourdes Grotto, a shrine to Our Lady of Lourdes, was built in the limestone rocks in 1958 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Virgin Mary's purported appearance to a peasant girl, St. Bernadette, in the south of France. Another grotto lies directly across the road. Neither is particularly noteworthy, probably because the local parish prohibits anyone from leaving candles, statues, pictures, or testimonials. Chartreuse parakeets inhabit the area.

Farther along the same road, the outback suddenly gives way to Aruba's second-largest town, San Nicolas. A phosphate-exporting port from 1879 until 1915, this town landed Esso's Lago oil refinery in 1924. Once the world's largest, the refinery attracted workers from other Caribbean islands, South America, and Europe. In 1942, U.S. troops landed to protect the complex, which supplied much of the Allies' aircraft fuel during the war. By 1951, the town had a population of 20,000, far more than Oranjestad at the time. The refinery closed in 1985, devastating the town and the island. It reopened in 1990 with a new owner, Texas-based Coastal Oil. Now that tourism has replaced oil as the island's major business, San Nicolas has waned in importance. One remnant of the town's "port atmosphere" deserves mention: Prostitution is legal in San Nicolas.

The center of Aruba's fishing industry, Savaneta is the island's oldest town and original capital. During the early Dutch period, its harbor was the safest place for ships, and in the mid-1800s, the area was known for breeding cochineals, insects that were crushed to produce the dye carmine. Retaining its salty tang, the town boasts a couple of good restaurants and a beachside spa.

On your way back home, you'll pass Hooiberg. At 162m (541 ft.), it may not be Aruba's highest hill, but it's the island's favorite landmark. If you have the stamina, climb the hundreds of steps (15-20 min.) to the summit; on a clear day, you can see Venezuela.

During the heyday of the oil refineries, Aruba's oldest village was a bustling port; now its primary purpose is tourism. The institution in town is Charlie's Restaurant & Bar. Stop in for a drink and advice on what to see and do in this little town.

Arikok National Park

Arikok National Park (tel. 297/582-8001), Aruba's showcase ecological preserve, sprawls over roughly 20% of the island. Rock outcrops, boulders, and crevices create microclimates that support animal species found only in Aruba, including the Aruban rattlesnake, Aruban cat-eyed snake, Aruban whiptail lizard, Aruban burrowing owl, and Aruban parakeet. Iguanas and many species of migratory birds live in the park as well, and goats and donkeys graze on the hills. Examples of early Amerindian art, abandoned mines from Aruba's gold-rush past, and remains of early farms dot the park. Sand dunes and limestone cliffs ornament the coast. It's easy to explore the preserve, but bring water, sunscreen, and food, and wear a hat and comfortable walking shoes. Birds and animals are most active in the morning, so go as early in the day as you can.

The government has plans to develop the area responsibly, but for now the sites can be reached by dirt road and hiking trail only. Routes are clearly marked, and signs are becoming more frequent and informative. If you're really into it, though, stop by the National Park office at Piedra Plat 42 in Paradera, on the main road between the Low-Rise area and Santa Cruz, to buy the excellent $15 guidebook. The office is open Monday through Friday from 7:30am till 3pm.

Miralamar, a complex of gold mines and trenches, was active during the first decade of the 20th century. The hills along the path here are overgrown with yellow poui and white gum trees, and derelict buildings at the site include an ore-testing lab, sleeping quarters, and a forge. Due to transportation problems and low-quality ore, the mines were abandoned in 1916, and many of the shafts collapsed. Century plants have now reclaimed the area.

Masiduri served as an experimental garden in the 1950s; the convergence of several creek beds makes the location reasonably moist. The eucalyptus trees and cunucu (farm) house date from the same era. The site now features an aloe-cultivation exhibit. In the early 1900s, Aruba was a major exporter of this plant known for its medicinal and healing properties. Today the sheltered location and comparatively moist conditions draw a variety of reptiles, including Aruban cat-eyed snakes. Feral donkeys, descendants of animals domesticated for transportation, come at night to rest.

The partially restored farm known as Cunucu Arikok recalls Aruba's agricultural past. It takes 45 minutes to complete the circular hiking trail through boulders, vegetation, and wildlife; shaded benches provide relief along the way. Beans, corn, millet, peanuts, and cucumbers were once cultivated at the site, and to protect the crops from goats, sheep, and donkeys, cactus hedges and stone walls were built. The restored adobe farmhouse has typically small windows and a sloping roof. Cactus was used to make roof beams, and mud and grass formed the walls. A barn, threshing floor, pigpen, and outhouse surround the house. Before Europeans arrived, Amerindians left drawings of birds and marine animals on overhanging rocks just off the trail near the parking lot. At dawn and dusk, the area is alive with parakeets, doves, troupials, mockingbirds, hummingbirds, lizards, and cottontail rabbits.

Prins Plantation, a complex of abandoned adobe structures, witnessed the cultivation of hundreds of coconut trees as recently as the 1960s. Passing by an old farmhouse, well, aloe field, and crumbling stone walls, the 45-minute walk provides views of a nearby ocean cove. Wildlife attracted to the vegetation includes iguanas, cottontails, troupials, parakeets, mockingbirds, kestrels, and caracaras (huge vulturelike hawks).

At the seacoast, the terrain and vegetation change dramatically from hills covered with cacti and divi divi trees to sand dunes and limestone bluffs studded with sea grapes and sea lavender. Soldier crab and lizard trails crisscross the morning sand of Boca Prins, and in the early spring, baby sea turtles hatch and wobble frantically toward the sea. Steps from the parking lot, stairs descend to Fuente, a rocky cove pounded by the surf. On the limestone bluff across the sandy beach, salt spray infuses the air, and small salt pans form where trapped water has evaporated. Bleached coral and bones litter the sharp plateau, and ospreys and caracaras patrol the coast. A 20-minute walk farther west along the coast, Dos Playa features two coves carved out of the limestone bluff. With its wide sandy beach, the first cove attracts sunbathers and is perfect for picnics, but its strong current makes swimming dangerous.

Tucked away on the coast northwest of Dos Playa, the Natural Pool or conchi known as Cura di Tortuga is protected from the rough sea by surrounding rocks. It's said that the pool was once used to hold sea turtles before they were sold (tortuga means turtle in Papiamento). On quiet days, the pool is great for a swim, but bathing is risky when waves leap the rock barrier. It's a considerable hike to the pool from the parking lot at Boca Prins; take a horseback tour to the site on another day to fully enjoy the experience.

A 15-minute walk from Boca Prins, Fontein Cave is the most popular of several small limestone hollows along the north coast (you'll pass the park's only restaurant on the way to the cave). Brownish-red drawings left by Amerindians and graffiti etched by early European settlers ornament the walls and ceilings. Calcareous-rich water dripping through the limestone has caused stalagmites and stalactites to form, some in the shape of bison or human heads (park rangers stationed at the cave will point them out). The hole is an important roosting place for long-tongued bats. Early in the evening, the flying mammals leave the cave for nectar and pollen.

A Dutch family owned the patch of land south of Fontein Cave at the beginning of the 19th century. Known as Hofi Fontein (fountain garden), it's the only place along the north coast with a freshwater spring. In the early 20th century, Chinese immigrants grew vegetables here, which explains the area's other common name, Chinese Garden. The humble museum, with animal, plant, and colonial-life displays, is worth a look, and rangers are happy to answer your questions.

The Quadirikiri Cave features two large chambers with roof openings that allow sunlight in, making flashlights unnecessary. Hundreds of small bats use the 30m-long (100-ft.) tunnel as a passageway to their nests deeper in the cave. A tale associated with Quadirikiri is dubious: The fiercely independent daughter of an Indian chief was trapped in the cave with her "unsuitable" suitor and left to perish. Defiant even in death, the spirits of the star-crossed lovers burst through the cave's roof and up to heaven.

Also known as the Tunnel of Love because of its heart-shaped entrance, the Baranca Sunu cave requires a flashlight to explore. Helmets and lights can be rented from the stand at the entrance to the 90m-long (300-ft.) passageway for $6. Stories of pirates using the cave to hide treasure have circulated for generations, but there's no evidence to confirm the rumors. Rather than return to the park entrance, follow the road along the coast. It eventually becomes a paved route that leads to San Nicolas.