A Visit to Vietnam: China Beach
For millions of Americans, China Beach means the popular 1980s TV series about Army nurses working desperately at a field hospital during the height of the Vietnam War.
It was not quite like M*A*S*H, television's darkly comic rendition of combat medicine during the Korean War. This one left out the laughs. There was nothing funny about Vietnam.
The star of the show was a pretty brunette, a girl-next-door type, named Dana Delany, who played Nurse Colleen McMurphy. Sadly, her career went into eclipse after that.
But China Beach is much more than the beautiful seaside backdrop, near Danang, that was the setting for the show.
Over the last 40 years, it has represented much of the change in the country the U.S. tried so desperately to save in the days when we believed in the domino theory, the concept that if South Vietnam fell to Communism, so too would all of Southeast Asia.
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It was a place where thousands of American GIs came for a break from the war. The military called it R and R (Rest and Rehabilitation). Many went back to die in the jungles of South Vietnam. But for a few days, they came to lie on the pure white sand at the base of beautiful Marble Mountain. China Beach also became a Vietcong guerrilla base and, later, it was the launching pad for desperate Vietnamese, the boat people, trying to escape. Many set out on the ocean in un-seaworthy vessels and perished in their attempts to find freedom. |
Major Tourist Attraction
Now, China Beach (the official name is My Khe) is a fancy tourist attraction for well-heeled Americans and Japanese who have been everywhere else.
The North Vietnamese, who now run the country, may have fought bitterly to force the American troops out, but they are doing their best to lure the tourists in. And they have discovered American style prices.
Old Bomber Hangers Still There
The old China Beach base with the long vacant bomber hangers is still there. And the field hospital is now a seafood plant.
North Vietnamese officials have become quite the entrepreneurs. For years, they were reluctant to use the American name for the place until the tourism department discovered that American tourists knew about China Beach and wanted to visit. So, they did not touch the name.
There is even a retirement community at China Beach for wealthy Japanese.
The beach itself is still largely undeveloped but more hotels and a golf course are on the way.
After decades of confusing infamy, China Beach is finally gaining the acclaim for what it has always been, even when nobody noticed: A beach, one of the finest in Asia.
Danang
Close to Hoi An and Hue, besides the China Beach, Danang also boasts its own attractions and makes a great base for exploring Vietnam's central coast. Danang's riverside promenade, central square and friendly residents make it a wonderful city to stroll in.
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The Marble Mountains are a cluster of five limestone towers rising from an otherwise flat plain. It's possible to climb to the summit of one of the peaks, and it has become a huge tourist attraction. Get there early in the morning before the tour buses. The hundreds of narrow steps carved into the limestone are steep and often difficult to climb. A couple of caves along the way provide a cool break. The view of the surrounding plains and the sea is well worth the effort. |
Danang also makes a great base for exploring the nearby cities of Hue and Hoi An. The ancient port city of Hoi An is less than an hour's drive by bus or motorbike, and makes an easy day trip. The former capital city of Hue lies about 100 km (62 miles) north via scenic Hai Van pass. You can take a minibus, hire a car and driver, or better yet, take the train.
Clearly developers are banking on Danang's beautiful beaches and proximity to nearby attractions to attract hordes of upscale travelers in the not-too-distant future. Vietnam's first luxury resort, the Furama, opened here in March 1997. An even larger resort with an 18-hole golf course is slated to follow soon. Can the crowds be far behind?
The best time to visit Danang is from April to September, when it tends to be dry and hot. Danang's winter, from October to March, tends to be wet and hot.
Nearest Airport: Danang International Airport
Recommended Resort:
Furama Resort Danang
68 Ho Xuan Huong Street
China Beach, Danang
Vietnam